By Rameez Makhdoomi*Srinagar: Rose water has seen many ebbs and flows of the turbulent and fascinating history of Kashmir. It has symbolised artistic flavours representing the colours of downtown Srinagar for centuries. It also symbolises hope, fragrance and holiness. It is flavoured water made by steeping rose petals in water. It is also used to flavour food, as a component in some cosmetic and medical preparations, and for religious purposes throughout Eurasia.
At Fatehkadal in downtown Srinagar near the revered shrine of Sufi Saint Mir Syed Ali Hamadani lies the epicentre of 500-year-old trade. Here, the Kozgar family is known for carrying forward the rose water manufacturing in Kashmir. Today, the elderly-looking Azizullah Kozgar, a rose water alchemist, is preserving this 500-year-old heritage. As a matter of fact, this Kozgar shop, running for centuries, is the main source of supply of rose water to entire Kashmir. This is a heritage shop.
Of late, a few more shops have come around Kashmir which are not too old.
Azizullah claims his family’s thrust on quality has kept his trade alive for so long.
Rose water is available at his space in small bottles, priced at Rupees 50 a litre, with major demand coming from religious places like shrines and mosques where it is sprinkled over floorings, doors and windows by devotees to strengthen the ambience.
Talking to Global Bihari, Azizullah says: “It is not a trade but a work of devotion. We get good demand from religious places and households as well. Rose water makes the ambience and atmosphere stronger. It is bought by individuals also for cosmetic purposes as it makes the face radiant and glowing.”
Azizullah informs that his family also used to produce Gulab Arak, which was used to be prescribed by Hakeems ( the traditional Physicians). “But since most of these Hakeems died, we now deal in rose water only.” He feels with multiple uses and renewed interests, the rose water will survive in future as well, to be carried forward by the coming generations.
The Kozgars make rose water with their hands, not machines. They use handmade copper vessels and traditional distillation techniques. Their water shop fills downtown Srinagar with its signature rosy aroma that lits up through its busy streets.
It is used nowadays also in sweets and cuisines to add to the aromatic flavours.
Since ancient times, roses have been used medicinally, nutritionally, and as a source of perfume. In Kashmir, the technique of making rose water seems to have come from Iran since many Sufi saints came from Iran to Kashmir. Iran still supplies 90% of global rose water demand. In Iran, it is widely used in many things ranging from tea to ice cream.
*Senior journalist
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