Cheese, Honey, and Herds: Montenegro’s Farming Revival

From Gas Station to Grazing: Pešićs Transform Rural Farming

A crisp morning in Tomaševo, a quiet village of barely 300 souls tucked into the northeastern mountains of Montenegro, sees a small group of tourists wandering along narrow paths, searching for a place to eat. The village, with its steep hillsides and sweeping landscapes, is gradually becoming a destination for those seeking agritourism—the charm of simple rural life far from crowded city streets. The visitors soon find themselves at the Pešić household, where curiosity gives way to relief as Vučko Pešić welcomes them and describes what the family can offer: a spread of local, homemade cheeses, cured sausages, freshly baked bread, honey harvested from nearby hives, and vegetables pulled straight from the garden.

For the tourists, it is more than a meal—it is a taste of tradition, served by a family whose hospitality is as generous as it is genuine. The Pešićs offer simple, traditional food, the same they have prepared for themselves for generations, and the group decides to stay, embracing not just lunch but the experience of living among people whose lives revolve around the land.

Yet Vučko Pešić’s influence stretches beyond feeding visitors. As a trained facilitator in the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations’ Farmer Field School programme, he guides other farmers in this remote corner of Montenegro, sharing knowledge and inspiring practices that improve both production and livelihoods. His path to farming, however, began later than most.

Vučko only came to agriculture in his early 30s. Before that, he, his wife Milijanka, and their children lived in the nearby city of Bijelo Polje, with Vučko working at a gas station to support the family. His parents maintained a modest farm with just two dairy cows, enough to meet their needs. After losing his job and the passing of his father, Vučko began considering taking over the family farm, though he had no prior experience.

“At the beginning, I didn’t know anything!” he recalls with a laugh. He and Milijanka had to learn everything from scratch: feeding and caring for the animals, processing the milk, and understanding the rhythms of farm life. A crucial inheritance came in the form of traditional cheese-making knowledge passed down from his mother, which Milijanka learned and refined. That skill opened doors for the family, allowing them to sell fresh, homemade foods to visitors and establish a foundation for a growing agritourism venture.

Milijanka quickly mastered the art of cheese-making, producing enough to sell at the local market. The demand grew steadily, and the family expanded their herd. Today, Milijanka runs a small cheese production facility on the farm, sourcing milk exclusively from their own cows. Cheese, especially fresh varieties, has been a cornerstone of Balkan diets for centuries. Made from cow’s or sheep’s milk, Montenegrin cheeses can be served as appetisers, salad toppings, or the centrepiece of hearty meals. Among her creations are a rolled cheese filled with sour cream and vraneski lisnati, a unique white cheese with thin, layered sheets and a distinctive milky-sour aroma and taste, its name reflecting its texture, meaning “in sheets.”

As their cheeses found their way into local hotels, Vučko expanded the herd, and the business grew alongside the farm. Today, the family owns 40 cows, 30 beehives for honey production, and several pigs and piglets. Their eight adult children, along with their own families, are fully involved—feeding animals, milking, preparing silage, gardening, and making cheese. “We are active all day, without exception,” Vučko says, pride evident in his voice.

Believing in the power of collective effort, Vučko founded a farmers’ collective to improve mechanisation and share knowledge. Silage production, essential for feeding livestock throughout the year, requires both skill and quality inputs—particularly challenging in Montenegro’s high-altitude, mountainous terrain where yields can be low. When Vučko first encountered FAO in 2007, it marked a turning point. He learned improved silage-making techniques and maintained contact with FAO experts over the years. “FAO brought in the best experts, with whom I maintained contact throughout the years, and even now, if I have a question, I reach out to them,” he says.

The Farmer Field School has helped cattle farmers in Montenegro improve farm conditions, adopt better hygiene and milk storage, and enhance feeding practices. As a trained facilitator, Vučko learned proper milk-processing techniques and how to help farmers adopt new methods. “I’m ready to adopt any technology that improves production or animal health,” he says. “Other farmers didn’t always think that way. But now, they’re more open, more curious, more involved.”

He organises meetings where farmers identify shared challenges and commit to improvements in farm management practices. When new ideas are proven effective, others follow suit. Facilitators like Vučko are critical to sustaining progress, ensuring knowledge continues to spread even after direct FAO involvement ends.

Today, the Pešić farm stands on solid ground, with dairy, honey production, and small livestock operations thriving. Their story offers a roadmap for other farmers, demonstrating how combining traditional knowledge with modern techniques can strengthen productivity, animal health, and rural livelihoods. Vučko and Milijanka remain deeply involved in every aspect of the farm, guiding both their family and their wider farming community. Through their work, they are not only preserving traditional practices but also nurturing a generation of farmers ready to innovate, adapt, and thrive in Montenegro’s challenging but fertile landscapes.

Source: The FAO News And Media Office, Rome

– global bihari bureau